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Late Model Dirt Racing Chassis - DIY...
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Sheetmetal Panel And Brake
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Late Model Dirt Racing Chassis - DIY Cockpit - Chassis
Project DLM
By
Bobby Clark
, Photography by
Bobby Clark
Circle Track
,
March, 2010
8.
Now that the metal is back at the shop, it's critical to get the measurements and dimensions correct-always measure twice and cut once. Here we're using our template for the lower front panel of the cockpit that will sit just in front of the brake pedals.
8. Now that the metal is back at the shop, it's critical to get the measurements and dimen
9.
When you cut sheetmetal you cut the bulk of it away, leaving approximately 1/4-inch extra near your line.
9. When you cut sheetmetal you cut the bulk of it away, leaving approximately 1/4-inch ext
10.
Then you go back and trim the excess off, forming a really cool metal roll.
10. Then you go back and trim the excess off, forming a really cool metal roll.
11.
Once the metal is cut, a gentle tap with a hammer smooths out the edge. That's a piece of block aluminum under the white sheetmetal.
11. Once the metal is cut, a gentle tap with a hammer smooths out the edge. That's a piece
12.
Don't have a sheetmetal brake? You can make your own using a piece of 1/4-inch-thick 4x4-inch angle steel, a vise, and a 2x10. Using a soft hammer you can slowly bend the metal into the shape you want.
12. Don't have a sheetmetal brake? You can make your own using a piece of 1/4-inch-thick 4
13.
The red string marks the height of the deck. All of the panels of the cockpit are measured off of that string and the floorpan.
13. The red string marks the height of the deck. All of the panels of the cockpit are meas
14.
The left-side panel has been cut and bent to fit. It takes two people to get in place.
14. The left-side panel has been cut and bent to fit. It takes two people to get in place.
15.
Templating pays off as the left-side panel fits perfectly.
16.
As the cockpit begins to take shape we use Vise-Grips to hold the various panels in place.
16. As the cockpit begins to take shape we use Vise-Grips to hold the various panels in pl
17.
During the process there were several areas where we had to notch our metal to fit around the rollbars. We taped foam pads around the metal to protect our new powdercoating job.
17. During the process there were several areas where we had to notch our metal to fit aro
18.
Everything must be test fit before locking down anything with the vise. Now is the time to make any changes. Here we're working on the back of the cockpit.
18. Everything must be test fit before locking down anything with the vise. Now is the tim
19.
As the right side of the cockpit goes into place you can see the string marking the height of the deck. We kept it there through the entire process. You can also see the back of the cockpit from Step 18 in the lower right corner.
19. As the right side of the cockpit goes into place you can see the string marking the he
20.
With everything test fit and all of the panels fitting together correctly we drill holes and put Cleco fasteners in those holes to hold everything in place prior to riveting.
20. With everything test fit and all of the panels fitting together correctly we drill hol
21.
Our Allstar Performance riveter makes quick work of the final assembly.
21. Our Allstar Performance riveter makes quick work of the final assembly.
22.
The finished product. The brake assembly including U.S. Brake master cylinders and the cool purple shifters are all in place. We'll add the seat, steering wheel and assembly, gauges, gauge panel, and more at a later date.
22. The finished product. The brake assembly including U.S. Brake master cylinders and the
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By
Bobby Clark
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