Stock Class Handling
I just read your article in this month's Circle Track about stock metric chassis setup and I think it will be a huge help. I'm 28 years old and have been a BMW master tech since I was 20. I raced karts as a kid and when I moved back to Wisconsin I quickly got back into it. I built a 125cc shifter kart and raced at the track I grew up at, Badger Kart Club in Dousman, WI, and got the 125cc championship 2008.
My dad, who is 71 now, raced stock cars before I ever raced karts and I've always wanted to try it. So, I sold my kart a week after the last race and bought a beat up Metric car to build in October and I'm still working on it. I have probably about $7,000 into my car and some of my competition have spent that much on their motors.
In area Sportsman, we are allowed to make all the modifications mentioned in "Stock Class Handling Tips," but I really don't know what to use as a starting point. For example, we can fabricate front upper mounts and use aftermarket upper arms and can lengthen the right lower arm by an inch. I used the stock mounts with a 7.5-inch right upper and 8.5-inch left upper arm. Because I didn't know where to initially set front camber and caster, I didn't make my own mounts.
Madison is a high bank 1/2-mile asphalt oval. To make a long story short, if there are any other articles or if you have any specific setup advice, I would highly appreciate it (especially stuff I can change for cheap or free). Thanks for the great magazine and for any help you can offer.
Great, a sensible set of Stocker rules. First off, if you can change the upper mounts, install plates and make them parallel to the centerline of the chassis. This makes setting up the frontend for geometry and antidive much easier. I once heard that the only reason the factory put the upper control arm shafts at a top view angle was to clear the cast headers in the performance cars. They couldn't have two designs, so that dictated the frontend design of every car, high-performance or not.
Talk to some local teams running in your class and ask about their cambers. The caster for that car should be set with a split of around 2-3 degrees with power steering, or 4-5 degrees without PS with the left side less than the right side. Try to work on your moment center location. That sounds complicated for you stock guys, but it is THE most important thing you can do.
Read our setup articles. The information you will find there for finding the dynamic balanced setup applies to your car too. You will know when you have a balance when the tires are the same temperature on each side front to rear. The articles tell you how to make changes to accomplish that goal.