The cast-aluminum valve covers certainly make a statement. The center-bolt design is less common in racing than older-style perimeter bolt valve covers. However, they already have breather tubes welded in place on the left-side valve cover. Gaskets were handled by a pair of Fel-Pro Perma-Drys (PN VS50088R).





Here's everything that comes with the water pump kit. All the necessary fasteners are provided, and everything is Grade 8. The water pump is a high-quality, lightweight aluminum unit. It comes with two spacers, which are necessary to align all of the pulleys.





Although the bolts on the left side of the pump will have to be removed later for the alternator bracket, it takes about six hands to put it all on at once. Save yourself some hassles by bolting up the water pump and then removing bolts one at a time as you add the brackets. Also, make sure to add thread sealant to the lower bolt on the right-hand side because it extends into the block's water jacket.



Stock cars don't use heaters, so a plug for the heater hose is included. It threads into place with a 31/48 hex driver.







Here is a good angle showing how the spacers push the water pump pulley out about a quarter of an inch. Gaskets are provided for both sides of the spacers.







The fuel pump is a rebuildable aluminum unit manufactured by CV Products that many engine builders swear by. What isn't included is a fuel pump pushrod, so we used an ultra-light piece from Moroso (PN 65750) that reduces fuel pump flutter at high rpm. Always lubricate both ends of the pushrod with either moly-lube (shown) or extreme-pressure lube. The lube holds the pushrod in position when you slide it into the engine, which makes bolting up the fuel pump a little easier.