The main shaft holds First through Fourth gears, the sliders, and the synchronizers. Snap rings are used to locate all the gears. Don't worry if you don't have a specialized holder like Carpenter's; you can use a vise with a set of brass jaw covers.
Second and Third gears must be removed with a hydraulic press. Just be careful, as there is a ring around the shaft that locates the gears. Make sure you are pressing against the gears and not the shoulder of the main shaft.
Make sure the teeth on the gears (top) and the sliders (bottom) as well as the brass synchronizers are still in good shape and have a defined point on them. If they are worn from use or broken from slamming the transmission into gear, they should be replaced to ensure smooth shifts in the future.
This input shaft should be replaced because of the wear to the left of the splines. This is a sign that the bellhousing isn't properly aligned, pulling the input shaft out of alignment so that it wears on the front bushing. Misalignment is also very hard on all the gears.
Inspect all the gears for cracks, broken teeth, severe pitting, and excessive wear. Carpenter suspects that the damage on this gear tooth is from a piece of metal floating in the gear case.
The cluster gear rides on 112 needle bearings. The bearings sit in four sets of rings inside the cluster gear, with two on each side of the gear and a spacer tube dividing the two sets. Use a thick moly paste to lubricate each set of the 28 needle bearings. The thick lube helps hold the needle bearings in place while you are placing them.