Step 11: The pump pulley slides on a shaft. A keyway is cut into both the pulley and the shaft and a key is used to keep the pulley from spinning on the shaft. Once the correct depth is found for the pulley, it can be locked into place with four set screws.
Step 12: Hibdon uses the straightedge method again to determine proper alignment. This time, however, he says you should move the pulley on the oil pump back so that there is a gap about 0.010 to 0.020 inch. This is because you don't want the drivebelt riding up on the inside shoulder of the pulley.
Step 13: Once you have everything where you want it, apply a little blue Loctite to the set screws and tighten everything down.
Step 14: Belt tension is adjusted by loosening the lower mounting bolt and sliding the pump in or out.
Step 15: Once you are ready, slide on the drivebelt.
Step 16: You don't want the drivebelt to be much tighter than this. The teeth on the belt won't allow it to slip, and keeping the belt this loose will allow a piece of trash that gets caught between the belt and pulley to move through without breaking anything. It also makes the belt easier to put on and take off.
Step 17: The end of the pump shaft has a threaded hole that allows you to screw in a hex bolt or a socket head cap screw such as this. Now, before cranking the engine you can spin the bolt with the correct socket on a cordless drill (with the belt off, of course) to prime the oiling system.
The finished product You should apply the same practices to any other beltdriven accessories, such as the alternator and power steering pump.
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KT Engine Development