Step 3: The main pulley is already in place on the water pump. Next, a secondary pulley (either for the alternator or a power-steering pump) is installed. Hibdon stresses that you must make sure the hub of the secondary pulley fits snugly in place over the nose of the water pump. If you use a pump designed for street use, it may have a smaller bearing and a smaller nose. If the hub is too large, you will be depending on the bolts to center the pulley and hold it steady, which isn't a good idea.
Step 4: This setup is good for high-rpm applications because it uses two V-belts to drive the water pump pulley and all the accessories attached to it. Hibdon uses a straightedge to ensure that the spacer he installed earlier has the rear pulleys aligned.
Step 5: Next, he moves to the front set of pulleys. The upper pulley on the water pump has more space between the V grooves, so the front set of pulleys does not match up.
Step 6: To aid alignment, the crank pulley breaks down into several components. Shims are used between the two pulleys to move the front pulley out. The pulleys also come in two pieces so that spacers can be used to adjust belt tension. For example, adding a spacer widens the V groove, allowing the belt to sit deeper in the pulley, thus lessening the tension.
You can see how much better the fit is now.
Step 7: Now that the correct amount of spacers has been determined, the lower pulley can finally be bolted up.
Step 8: Hibdon unbolts the upper pulley set, drops the two V-belts into place, and then bolts everything back up.
Step 9: Here, you can see the belts with the proper alignment. They run perfectly parallel to each other. Make sure both belts have the same tension so that one won't wear more quickly than the other.
Step 10: The oil pump uses a toothed drivebelt with a pulley setup so that the pump spins at 50 percent of crankshaft speed. The pump pulley has no shoulder on the front to make removing the belt easier whenever you need to prime the oil pump.