Next, we make sure the caliper is centered over the rotor. This is donewith a dial caliper. | 
Now that the caliper is properly located and held in position by theforce of the brake pads pressing against the rotor (which has,obviously, been locked so that it cannot spin), we can begin measuringfor the brackets. | 
The bracket for the rear caliper mount is gusseted because it must bewelded to the axle tube at a 90-degree angle. |
The brackets, which have simply been cut from steel plate, are tackwelded into place with the spindle, rotor, and caliper all still on thefixture. | 
The caliper mounting hardware is bolted and safety-wired to ourbrackets, which we have welded to the spindle. This system allows forshims to be used to readjust the calipers as needed. | 
Caliper location is rechecked to make sure the pads will contact therotor evenly on both sides. Notice the mounting stud in the topright-hand corner of the caliper. |
Here's the setup on the rear axle. | 
Although lightweight, these four-piston calipers are well built. Theyare engineered to eliminate as much flex as possible. Features include abillet bridge to help strengthen the top of the caliper and big "beams"of material running down either side of the caliper. If you suspect yourcalipers are flexing, check pad wear. Pads that have more wear at thetop (the part contacting the outside of the rotor) than the bottom are aresult of the caliper flexing out as the pistons press the pads againstthe rotor. | 
A lot of race teams settle when it comes to cooling the brakes by simplypointing the cooling hose at the inside of the rotor using the TLARmethod. ("That looks about right.") This is almost guaranteed to lead toinefficient cooling. The other end of the spectrum is carbon-fiber"caps" that direct cooling air from the hose into the center of therotor--nice, but expensive. You can do the same with a sheet of aluminum,a hammer, a shrinking tool, and a tig welder. It doesn't have to befancy, but the goal is to get all of the cooling air from the hose ontothe rotor and caliper. It is difficult to see in this photo, but Davishas also built a backing plate mounted to the back of the spindle tofinish the cap. |
When finishing up the plumbing, it's a good idea to leave a little slackin the line just before the master cylinders. This way, if the front endgets knocked out of joint, the brake lines aren't so tight that theypull the master cylinders off the firewall, ruining them too. | | |