Rollcage Installation - Behind Bars

These model Ford Mustangs have a coating over the floor to prevent rust and insulate the cabin, which obviously must be removed if you plan on welding anything to the chassis. We found a couple of blows with the hammer and some chiseling to be the fastest method of removal.

Once Pete got close to the bare metal, he broke out the air-powered sanding wheel and a set of aggressive pads to remove the paint, rust, and leftover seam sealer. We’re not sure if sanding/melting seam sealer can cause you any harm, but it’s probably best to do this in a well-ventilated area.

With the area clean, Pete placed the Competition Engineering 6x6-inch floor plate in position and tack welded it in place. On our Mustang, placing this in the corner of the driver seat gave us ample room to work and provided a perfect mounting location for the main rollbar hoop.

The main hoop slid easily in place and, believe it or not, required no trimming at all to fit tightly against the floor and the roof. This is truly a testament to how much thought and engineering goes into this rollcage kit before it leaves Competition Engineering’s factory.

Looking into the Mustang from the rear hatch area, you can see how well the bar conforms to the B-pillar area. If you were running factory interior panels, the fit would be tighter, but since the rules dictate that all panels must be removed, we have the perfect amount of room.

This is a view from the floor of the Mustang, looking up at the roofline and main hoop. The main hoop comes up right at the roofline and fits snug, exactly how you want it for maximum headroom, visibility, and safety.

With the main hoop tacked in place, Pete turned his attention to fitting the rear strut bars. According to Competition Engineering, the rear strut bars “connect the main hoop with the rear frame at the upper spring mounts. Typically, these rear strut bars would run to a set of 6x6-inch plates but we had other ideas.

Using an extra piece of tubing, Pete fabricated this trick strut bar, which will weld to each strut mount and provide a base for our rear strut bars. By tying the struts together, we create a stiffer chassis and give the main hoop extra bracing, in the event that we do ever have to rely on it for safety.

Competition Engineering provides extra long rear strut bars, which must be cut to length for your specific application. By shipping the kit this way, it gives builders the chance to make changes on the fly, like we did, which is a nice option to have.

After measuring twice and cutting once, Pete slid the rear strut bars in place and tacked them in to position. To find the perfect distance for each bar from the strut mount, we actually sat in the Mustang and found the centerline of our heads, placing the driver-side upper strut bar directly behind the head, to help protect us in a rollover situation.

Next up, Pete lifted the top hoop into place and marked it for some trimming. When installing the top hoop, you want it “to be installed so that the front is level and pushed as high into the roof as possible.” In our Mustang, we couldn’t get the bar completely horizontal without major roof modifications, so a slight 2- or 3-degree incline will have to do.

If you’re installing the top hoop yourself, or you happen to be working with a completely useless photographer who refuses to help, you can use a ratchet-strap to keep the front in place while you measure, check clearance, and tack the hoop in place.