Once we have removed the nut and pulled the front bearing out, the only other thing we have to do is disconnect the magnet wire for the drum brakes. We do so by crawling underneath the trailer and unplugging it.

Here is the basic drum setup. It's easy to see why the disc brakes are going to be so much better. Note the uneven wear pattern.

Now we need to undo the six nuts that are holding on the drum brake kit.

The drum brakes are officially off the vehicle now. The studs that held on the drum brake kit will also have to be removed because the bolts are not long enough to compensate for the disc brakes brackets.

We remove them by simply using a little force. Once off, we cleaned the spindle thoroughly.

Here are the new studs we'll be using to attach the brake caliper brackets. We have used a little Loctite on the bolts to ensure that they hold up under the intense conditions they will face.

Here, we attach the brake-caliper bracket with the new studs.

Here's the end result before we attach the disc rotor and the caliper.

Now we slide the rotor onto the spindle and place the front bearing in the rotor after a healthy application of grease. We then reattach the nut and the safety key.

The next step is to attach the brake calipers. Before we do so, we need to be certain that the bolts will not seize up over the course of a season, so we're using a little 2,800-degree paste lube to prevent a failure.

Glenn Maurer, President of EGRBrakes.com, attaches the brake caliper to the bracket using two allen bolts.

Now all we have left to do is attach our brake line from earlier. The brake pressure will come from a hydraulic actuator that will allow you to continue to use your normal brake controller in your vehicle.

Attach the dust cap, and now you're ready to put the wheel back on.

We upgraded the rims to HWT series 06, and put a new set of Goodyear rubber on the trailer.

Look at the difference in how much better the trailer tire looks compared to the other wheel. But it will also be more efficient in stopping.