I would like to buy exact parts you suggest and put on the car, then have caster, camber, toe, and bump set so it handles better. Then I can go get some track time and start learning how to actually drive a car that is set up correctly. The learning curve would be much shorter I think if the car is set up correctly and I don't have to fight an ill-handling car from the get go. I'm 42 and this is just a hobby for me. You only live once, I say. I really enjoy your mag. Thanks for any help!
That is why they call it the Hobby Stock division. I can't tell you exact part numbers for your car, but I can tell you that I heard recently that any AMC spindle off a two-wheel-drive AMC car is useful because it is taller and adjustable for height. One racer has scrounged around the junkyards to find all of these he can in his area.
As for design, we can tell you that you must try to remount your upper control arms so that they have more angle in them, and inside chassis mounts lower than the ball joints. This helps provide a roll/moment center that is more central to the car and does not move very much.
I don't think there are any parts that will make your frontend perfect and some manipulation is necessary to create the best toe, bumpsteer, Ackermann, and cambers as well as caster settings. Heat up that torch and get to work. The Hobby part of the description means you'll be spending quality time in the garage getting that puppy built and set up correctly. And most racers enjoy that time as much or more than track time.
Setups and Roll Angles
I have raced Late Models in the past and have recently had to park my car so that I can concentrate on my education. I'm now setting up/crew chiefing my little brother's LLM car. We have been fairly successful at running a BBSS setup by learning which settings/spring rates, through trial and error, work best with our selection of tracks.
I just read your article about bumpstops/coil binding in the latest issue. We now run pretty much the same front spring/shock/sway bar setup on the front and adjust our rear to neutralize the handling of the race car. Your article provides some specific roll angle statistics.
Is there a computer program to calculate roll angles separately front and rear? If I get my front roll angle to essentially be the additive inverse of the rear roll angle will this be a good starting point to try to go from? I know your programs are good programs. You have been working on them for a while.
I remember when I was about 10 years old going to one of your Chassis R&D seminars at the Piedmont Racing Expo in Roxboro, NC. I just want to know if it will do what I want it to do with respect to this issue. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge.
By reading the article, you know that you can even achieve a zero-roll angle, although we don't recommend that as a goal. You are doing the right thing with the way you match the rear roll to the front. The front is very hard to change once you select your springs and sway bar, so we go to the rear to move the Panhard bar up and down and change the spring split (difference between the left and right springs in rate) to match the roll angles front to rear.
I'm impressed with your memory. I used to do select seminars around the Southeast in past years. The company, Chassis R&D, does sell software that calculates the front and rear roll angles. Yes, I own that company and have owned it since long before my CT days. But now my wife runs it and I have always strayed away from promoting those products in this magazine. If a racer finds his/her way to those programs, fine. It's called free choice.
Most of what I know stems from my working with teams to generate setups. Certain tools can teach us a lot about how certain components affect the setup and to what degree. I remember when I first used a geometry software program where I could change the arm angles and lengths by just typing in new ones. I immediately saw tendencies and trends I could never have imagined.