A From my experience and listening to others who know, we know the sway bar does help you get bite off the corners. It doesn't affect the middle handling balance as much as some racers think. That means you may have been close to balanced with the old setup. What you need to do is make changes to improve the setup with the sway bar installed. Not knowing the banking angle of the track, or other pertinent information, I cannot specifically address your setup. Here are some general trends that will help your car in the middle of the turns.

Reduce the front spring split by softening the right front spring. If the track is flat (less than 10 degrees), you can probably reverse the front springs or soften both sides with the left front stiffer than the right front. You can also reduce the rear spring split to, say, 25 pounds of difference to free up the car in the middle. I would reduce the left rear spring rate to 225 pounds to accomplish this. With the metric four-link rear suspension that I assume your car has, the rear roll center is very high. If the 25-pound rear spring split makes the car loose in the middle, go back to the 50-pound split.

By reinstalling the sway bar, you have a tool to tune the bite off the corner. Remember, speed through the middle is worth a lot and helps the speeds all the way around the track. If you have a choice, you should maintain the middle balance and the speed that goes with it and live with the bite problem. With a little refinement in the spring rates, you just might be able to have the best of both.

Lowering The Metric Spindles
Q I have a problem, (and) may not have any choices. I have a metric chassis-Hobby Stock dirt with not-so-stock rear weight jacks, 3,000 pounds, and 355 cubic inches. We can no longer run the aftermarket 2-inch lowering spindles. Is there any known method for getting the stock spindles lowered? I heard others talking about different bottom ball-joints and moving the top joint to the bottom of the A-frame (is this safe?). Could you please help with this, if possible? I have the front end disassembled and am looking for solutions now. Also, S-10 spindles are not allowed.
D. Shaw
Via E-mail

A I assume you are trying to take some of the angle out of the lower control arms. You can use the adjustable mono-ball type of lower ball joint and drop the lower ball joint up to one inch. I have heard of teams drilling and tapping the spindle to accept a machine-head bolt the same size as the mono-ball hole to further lower the ball joint.

The lower ball joint takes a lot of the cornering forces, and I would strongly discourage you from using a top ball joint in the bottom of the spindle. The mono-ball type of joint uses a much stronger shaft for the lower ball joint than the upper ball joint, and I have not heard of any problems with them breaking.

Another thought would be to raise the front of the car to help take angle out of the lower control arms. We have done that with the dirt Late Models in order to help the design of the front roll center. The roll center placement can improve the car to turn in the middle and promotes performance, more so than raising the center of gravity hurts. On some dirt tracks, a higher center of gravity is actually beneficial in getting more weight transfer for dry, slick conditions.