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Project Mudslinger: So Little Time, So Much To Do

We’ve Yet To Hit The Track, But Team Mudslinger Has Already Begun Its Racing Career—against The Clock And Opening Day
February, 2009
By Theo James
Photography by Theo James
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Chris and Neil built a framework... 
   
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Chris and Neil built a framework out of lightweight half-inch square tubing before boxing in the interior of the car.
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Chris cut off the back section... 
   
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Chris cut off the back section of the trunk and used it to maintain the stock shape of the car. He’s using a beadroller to create a lip for our trap door to rest on.
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The section of trunk sits... 
   
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The section of trunk sits on the half-inch square tubing framework. Chris used a body shop trick to attach the section of trunk lid to the frame. He drilled holes along the length of the section of trunk, then welded the trunk to the tubing through the holes. Finally, he ground the welds flush with the sheetmetal. Once it’s painted you won’t even be able to see the weld marks.
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Scott Helms helps Chris fit... 
   
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Scott Helms helps Chris fit up our trap door. We think this will look a lot nicer than drilling holes in the stock trunk lid and hanging it on hood pins. If you try this, make sure to rib the sides of the aluminum sheets to give them some strength.
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Here’s how the adjustable... 
   
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Here’s how the adjustable spring cups were installed in the car. In the front , the cups were welded in the stock spring pocket.
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In the rear , we tried cutting... 
   
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In the rear , we tried cutting a hole in the spring pocket, running the cup partway through and then welding around the outside of the cup. Both methods worked well. In both cases we had to cut off part of the top of the spring cup to make it fit. To make adjustments easier at the track, we notched the adjuster disks with a reciprocating saw. Now if the disks are stuck we can use a screwdriver and hammer to knock them loose.
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We’re still trying to... 
   
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We’re still trying to get rid of unnecessary weight. Rodney Helms cuts the roof supports nearly down to nothing. We also dropped the front of the roof approximately an inch to try to keep air from getting underneath it.
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Our engine sits nicely in... 
   
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Our engine sits nicely in the bay on our homemade solid mounts. I didn’t take into account where our Schoenfeld header would pass through the firewall when running the brake lines, and, of course, ran the line to the right front wheel right where it shouldn’t be. Just one more thing we’ll have to redo later. Also, if you’ve been following along with the Project Mudslinger buildup, you may notice that the radiator frame is now missing. The right strut support hoop (on the left from this view) was too tall and restricted the movement of our caster/camber adjuster plate from Ford Racing Performance Parts. We have removed it, cut it down and welded it back into place, but we haven’t yet replaced the radiator framework.
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We were looking for a transmission... 
   
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We were looking for a transmission with a 1.99 ratio second gear. We couldn’t find one, but our friends at LWP Auto Salvage had an old Pinto transmission with a 1.96 second, so we went with that. The Pinto tranny bolts up to the engine no problem, but the tailhousing is different. Using a dummy unit, we had to modify our crossmember to accept the different tailhousing. Now we’ll be ready when our racing unit comes in from Jim Cook Race Cars.
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When we mounted our Wilwood... 
   
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When we mounted our Wilwood brake and clutch pedals, the sloping firewall kept us from putting them as far back as we would have liked. The distance between the driver’s seat and the pedals was just too close to be comfortable. Thankfully, the pedals allow the master cylinders to simply be flipped over for overhead mounting. We created a frame for the pedals out of some fairly thick sheetmetal and square tubing and welded it to the rollcage at the correct height. Of course, this is just one more area where we are going to have to rework the brake lines.
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Moving the master cylinders... 
   
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Moving the master cylinders up allowed us to move the brake and clutch pedals back considerably. The driving position is now much more comfortable.

I don’t remember much from my high school days—and what I do remember is receeding right along with my hairline—but there was one story about the most unlucky dude in Greek mythology that has stuck with me all this time. This cat’s name was Sisyphus, and he had done something so heinous in his lifetime that he was sentenced to forever push a large boulder up a hill. Every time he neared the top of the hill the rock escaped from his control and rolled right back down to the bottom, and he’d have to start over. Don’t ask me what the point of rolling the rock up the hill was, I don’t know.

The gist here is we’ve all had days when we’ve felt a lot like Sisyphus. As Project Mudslinger has inched ever nearer to completion, we’ve sometimes felt trapped on the same hill. Last month we recounted the process of installing the steering system, then ripping it out and starting over again. Project Mudslinger is still moving forward, but as we’ve learned more about what we need out of the car, we’ve begun the process of refining some areas that still needed a little help.

Thinking we were ready to put a body on the car, we ordered five sheets of aluminum from Stock Car Steel and Aluminum, loaded everything up and trucked the Project Mudslinger car to a friend’s race shop. Chris Hargett races Dirt Late Models and Neil Wilson is his crew chief. Together they have started H&W Race Car Fabrication, building and repairing cars for other racers. They once made the off-hand comment that they would help us out if we ever needed anything and now we’re holding them to it. Chris earns his living in the daytime working in his father’s body shop, so we knew we wanted his help making the Mudslinger look like a real car again.

Using half-inch square sticks of steel that we also got from Stock Car Steel, Chris and Neil began by building a framework to box out the inside of the car. Our rules say we have to have a stock steel roof and rear quarters, so to keep weight low, the rest of the car is going to be aluminum. Because we weren’t going to be using the heavy stock trunk lid we decided to make a Late Model-style trap-door access to the fuel cell. It required a trip to the hardware store for a piano hinge and a little extra time on the sheetmetal brake, but it turned out really trick. We also cut out all but the exterior face of the A-posts. While we were at it, we notched the A-posts and dropped the front of the roof appoximately an inch. The goal is to make sure the roof is angled slightly down, or is at least level, so it won’t act like a big sail going down the straights.

While Chris and Neil were working their sheetmetal magic, the rest of the Mudslinger crew began retracing its steps. We still didn’t have our ride heights set, so it was impossible to hang the body correctly until that was done. It was about here that our progress, which had been sailing along smoothly on an asphalt interstate, took a hard right onto the infamous 50 miles of bad road. We decided our efforts to tune the chassis would be greatly improved with a set of adjustable spring cups. No problem. Our friends at Bradley’s Auto Parts had just about anything we needed and set us up with four adjustable units from Afco. The units we used have about three inches of adjustability and required slight modifications to fit our car. Unfortunately, the 11-inch Blue Coil springs I ordered to be used up front were now too long. Thankfully, the folks at Suspension Spring Specialists (the makers of Blue Coil springs) said because the springs had not been used (they had been installed on the car but it has always sat on jackstands) they could replace them with the 9.5-inch units we now needed. The rear springs were the right size.

Once the suspension was reworked, Chris and Neil fabbed up some solid engine mounts so we could set the mill in place. The transmission was still being readied at Jim Cook Race Cars, so we had to bolt up a dummy unit. We are using a Shoenfeld through-the-firewall header, which is a nice piece. Richard Johnson, our engine builder, says the through-the-firewall configuration is worth a handful of horsepower over headers that route the exhaust under the floorboard, so we definitely want this pipe. But, of course, we forgot to take this into consideration when we routed the brake line across the firewall to get to the right-front tire. Looks like we’ll be borrowing a brake line flange again.

Because of the hurdles—including remounting the brake and clutch pedals—we are behind getting the body in place. It looks like the beginning of the race season is going to start without us, but that’s OK. We said from the beginning that we wanted to try building a car from scratch and take our lumps along the way—looks like we’re getting our wish.

Bradley’s Auto Parts
Indian Trail
NC  28079
LWP Auto Salvage
4731 Stough Rd.
Concord
NC  28027
704/782-9571
Ford Racing Performance Parts
44050 N. Groesbeck Hwy.
Clinton Township
MI  48036-1108
(810) 468-1356

www.fordracing.com/performancepa
rts
SCHOENFELD HEADERS
20 Cane Hill
Van Buren
AZ  72956
H&W Race Car Fabrication
Monroe
NC  28110
Stock Car Steel and Aluminum
Mooresville
NC  28115
JR Motorsports
801 SW Ordanance Rd.
Ankeny
IA  50021
888/771-5574
Suspension Spring Specialists
Bremen
AR  46506
Jim Cook Race Cars
185 Glenwood Dr.
Concord
NC  28025
704/786-6979
WILWOOD ENGINEERING
4700 Calle Bolero, Dept. SC
Camarillo, CA 93012

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