Ctrp 1208 Rust Proofing Burn Your Headers 012

Racers are an ingenious lot. After all, the sport is expensive, time consuming and inseparable from an element of risk. That's enough to weed out all but the most committed individuals. And even then few have the resources available to do everything just the way they'd like.

Instead of simply throwing money at every problem that crops up, often the only option is to figure out a way to make do with less. Instead of replacing race-worn parts on a regular schedule, components are made to last as long as possible with meticulous maintenance. Bent sheetmetal is straightened, bent chassis are cut up and welded back together. Tires are pushed to last an extra week. You get the idea.

But we've also seen some really clever solutions that race teams have come up with to save a buck while advancing their racing operation. Take, for example, how you can use a couple quarts of automatic transmission fluid and a torch to rust-proof your exhaust headers instead of spending the cash to have your headers professionally coated.

The process literally requires only a Scotch Brite pad (or two), a couple quarts of automatic transmission fluid (otherwise known as ATF), a torch to heat the material, some WD-40 or an equivalent lubricant/rust penetrant, a pair of heavy gloves, and some old rags. Believe it or not, that's it.

And if you don't believe it, we'll show you exactly how it's done.

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    1 The process of rust-proofing your headers requires only a few hours. It is best to use new headers that don’t have contaminants embedded into the metal. These are a new pair of headers that were ordered bare. If your headers arrive painted, they will need to be sandblasted or sanded to get to bare metal. Also, make sure to mock up the complete exhaust system ahead of time to make sure everything fits up properly and weld up any mounting tabs beforehand. Notice that we’re also going to be treating the muffler.
    1 The process of rust-proofing your headers requires only a few hours. It is best to use
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    2 Your headers should already be cleaned, but take a moment to wipe them down again with a Scotch-Brite pad to make sure they are as clean as possible. Also, you should have all the individual components broken down and wired up separately.
    2 Your headers should already be cleaned, but take a moment to wipe them down again with
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    3 Your headers should already be cleaned, but take a moment to wipe them down again with a Scotch-Brite pad to make sure they are as clean as possible. Also, you should have all the individual components broken down and wired up separately.
    3 Your headers should already be cleaned, but take a moment to wipe them down again with
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    4 With the first set of headers wired up and ready to go, Chris Hargett fires up the acetylene torch with a rosebud tip. The key is to get as much heat into the metal of the exhaust tubing as quickly as possible without cutting or otherwise damaging it.
    4 With the first set of headers wired up and ready to go, Chris Hargett fires up the acet
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    5 It’s time to put the heat to the pipes. You don’t need to get them so hot that they are cherry red, but the exhaust components do need to be heated until they are nearly to that level.
    5 It’s time to put the heat to the pipes. You don’t need to get them so hot that they are
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    6 ATF seems to work best because it burns off cleanly and isn’t too flammable. What type you use isn’t too important. As you can see from this photo, we pulled a couple quarts off the back of the shelf that look like they had been sitting around for a few years.
    6 ATF seems to work best because it burns off cleanly and isn’t too flammable. What type
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    7 A pair of heavy leather gloves with extra long cuffs are imperative. We got these from Harbor Freight for around 10 bucks. Don’t splurge on the gloves because they will be soaked in ATF by the time you are done and ruined. Soak an old shop rag with the fluid. Now is not the time to be stingy.
    7 A pair of heavy leather gloves with extra long cuffs are imperative. We got these from
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    8 Apply the ATF liberally to the heated pipes. If the metal is hot enough, the ATF will usually catch fire, like you see here. Make sure to squeeze enough ATF out of the rag to coat between the areas where you can’t reach.
    8 Apply the ATF liberally to the heated pipes. If the metal is hot enough, the ATF will u
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    9 Obviously, you need to take maximum care when dealing with heated pipes that are now also on fire. Things can get even trickier when you are trying to apply the ATF while the header is swinging around on the wires, so get a helper to steady the headers with a pair of pliers.
    9 Obviously, you need to take maximum care when dealing with heated pipes that are now al
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    10 Don’t forget all the other exhaust sections. They should be treated just like the headers.
    10 Don’t forget all the other exhaust sections. They should be treated just like the head
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    11 Now go back with the torch to heat the pipes back up and burn off any ATF that remains. It’s best to repeat the process three times, so you will be cycling back and forth between heating the pipes, applying the ATF and burning it back off.
    11 Now go back with the torch to heat the pipes back up and burn off any ATF that remains
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    12 Normally, the ATF will flame up only on the first application. On the second and third go-round, all you’ll normally see is a lot of smoke. Keep your face out of the fumes as much as possible.
    12 Normally, the ATF will flame up only on the first application. On the second and third
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    13 Finish by thoroughly cleaning the exhaust components by burning off the rest of the ATF with the torch.
    13 Finish by thoroughly cleaning the exhaust components by burning off the rest of the AT
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    14 The last step is to wipe down everything with rust penetrant and clean rags to remove any of the burned residue.
    14 The last step is to wipe down everything with rust penetrant and clean rags to remove
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    15 Here’s one of the headers reassembled. The clean steel look has now taken on a golden hue. After the racing starts, the only maintenance needed will be every couple of weeks to run the engine enough after cleaning the car to heat the headers up and wipe them down with a WD-40–soaked rag. The headers will turn darker over time but the rust will be held at bay.
    15 Here’s one of the headers reassembled. The clean steel look has now taken on a golden
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