The containers should be either metal or an opaque plastic. If you're using plastic fuel cans and you are transferring gasoline, the best color is black. Translucent white fuel containers may look cool and may be the rage, but they aren't the best selection for the transportation and storage of fuel. You may be paying a price in diminished performance of the fuel for that cool look in the pits.

The translucent, white, or light-colored containers are fine for alcohol-based fuels. But remember that alcohol has its own set of idiosyncrasies. Alcohol is hydroscopic; it will absorb water from exposure to the air. Leave alcohol in a vented container in even a dry climate and it will absorb water and the water will degrade the power producing aspects of the fuel. All fuels should be shielded from the sunlight not just due to damage caused by ultraviolet light but the elevated temperatures that are caused by turning your fuel cans into solar heaters. Fuel containers stored in direct sunlight and even indirect sunlight will hiss as they are opened. This hissing is all of that high-dollar fuel venting its lighter elements into the atmosphere.

Try to avoid storing fuel in your trailer as this can be a real safety hazard. If you can smell high concentrations of fuel vapor in the trailer when you open the door you have two problems. The first problem is that the fuel jugs should not be venting into the atmosphere at all, fix that problem by purchasing fuel containers with closable vents. The second problem is that your trailer should be vented better so that fumes of any sort that do escape can't gather in the trailer. The addition of some roof vents will help.

You need to remember that your fuel containers are really consumable items just like tires. They do not last forever and still wear out. If you're using plastic fuel containers, inspect them regularly for cracks around the container and cap/vents. When you find a crack, replace the container. And even if you don't and the container is several years old you should still replace it. If you are using metal containers you need to be on the lookout for rust in the can and around the fill points. Attention to small details is what separates the winners from the field fillers.

The majority of racers are unaware that many states have some very specific laws that govern the amount of fuel that can be carried in a vehicle outside of the tank. If you are going to transport fuel on the open road you need to be aware of the laws regarding the transporting of fuel.

Tanks & Cells
Once the fuel reaches the tank we still need to be very conscious about keeping the fuel clean. Fuel cells don't last forever, the foam that's inside the bladder can break down over the course of a season or sooner depending on the fuel you are running. Some race fuels are very unkind to synthetic rubber products over time. If this happens the fuel will be contaminated by the foam and can cause some real fuel system problems. The foam should be replaced at the intervals sug-gested by the fuel cell manufacturer.

If you are still using the OEM tank you are not home free just yet. It's entirely possible that the tank has seen a good number of over the road miles and is possibly or more than likely contaminated with rust and scale after many years of use as a grocery getter. You may want to remove the tank and have it cleaned. The truth of the matter is that once the OEM tank is removed you might as well think about installing a fuel cell just for the safety that this type of tank offers.

Lines
Getting the fuel from the cell or tank is accomplished with the fuel lines. If you're utilizing the OEM fuel lines, they're usually made up of a combination of hard lines made of steel or flexible steel lines and rubber or neoprene hoses. Steel lines are usually very durable. The caution point, if you're racing in a Street Stock-type of class, the OEM fuel lines, while very durable, are not designed for race cars. The elevated level of maintenance racers perform may cause wear and tear on the various components of the fuel lines, especially the fittings and threaded joints. You need to make sure that the fuel lines are routed in such a way that they are securely mounted to the chassis and are protected from any debris or errant broken part you may encounter on the track. If you have rerouted the fuel lines you need to make sure that the fuel line will not be in the way of any suspension parts that at their full range of movement could impact or rub on the fuel line. If you're running the fuel lines through the passenger compartment, most racing organizations require that the line be run through a section of steel tubing that will isolate the fuel line from leaking into the driver's compartment.