If you could cut as much as...
If you could cut as much as 45 percent off of one component on your race car, would you do it? That's exactly what we did with this DLM Shaw by Perky chassis by using Aeroquip's arLite hoses instead of standard steel-braided hoses.
Weight is the racer's bane. Every racer wants to cut weight, either simply to make his car lighter, or-if there is a minimum weight rule-so that he has more lead available to move around and improve the overall weight bias. But it's not always quite so easy.
Racing is a rough business, and often components have to be beefy in order to stand up to the punishment they are exposed to weekly. If you cut too much weight with suspension or chassis components, you may just wind up on the trailer early with a DNF. The same thing goes for engine components.
You can go with high-tech materials that maintain strength, but the downside here is they can often be exorbitantly expensive. Plus, if you go the high-technology route, even if it's legal now, as soon as it becomes more popular there's always the chance your racetrack will make it illegal in order to keep costs contained.
One great option that is legal in almost all racing series, is just as durable as its heavier-weight counterpart, is still affordable (although a bit more expensive than standard equipment) and, most importantly, can cut a significant chunk of weight off your car is lightweight hoses.
Here are our raw materials:...
Here are our raw materials: StarLite hose in a variety of sizes, support coil, and lightweight aluminum crimp-on hose ends.
Before you can begin, you...
Before you can begin, you need to have all the major plumbing components in place. This includes the motor, radiator, overflow tanks, power steering pump, oil pump, and oil tank (pictured) if you're running a dry-sump system, oil cooler, and fuel cell (among other things).
Once all the components are...
Once all the components are in place, begin planning how you will route your hoses. Look for the shortest routes that will also protect the hoses from the elements. It may also help to start placing fittings so you can plan what degree bends you will require, as you can see here on the oil pump.
With your hose ends in place,...
With your hose ends in place, you can choose exactly where you want to route the hose and mark the length. StarLite can be cut in a number of ways but the best method is to use a hose cutter.
If you have trouble getting...
If you have trouble getting the hose ends into the hose, you can use a light lube to help get everything fitted together.
Any hose that is under vacuum-namely...
Any hose that is under vacuum-namely suction lines from the oil pump to the oil pan-requires an inner coil to ensure that it won't collapse. The coil doesn't add significantly to the weight. Cut it the same length as the hose.
To find out more we stopped by the shops of CV Products in Thomasville, North Carolina, while CV's Andy Durham installed practically all the plumbing on a new Dirt Late Model for driver Bryon Allison.
Durham chose Aeroquip's StarLite line of lightweight hoses and fittings for the job for both durability and ease of use. Aeroquip says its StarLite hoses are 45 percent lighter than standard stainless steel braided lines, which really adds up when you consider all the fluid that must be moved throughout a race car. On a typical race car this usually equals cutting 15 pounds off the total weight of the car.
It's nearly impossible to...
It's nearly impossible to simply cram the inner liner into the hose. Instead, there's an easier way. Begin by bending the end of the coil.
Aeroquip's StarLite hose is also a good choice for most racing applications because it is available in AN sizes 4 through 20, has a cover woven from Nomex and Kevlar that is not only flame resistant but also offers good wear resistance, can handle fluids up to 300 degrees F, is quite flexible to make routing easier, and can be used with a support coil so it can also be used in suction lines.
Possibly the best part is the installation of all the lines in the car was done in a single morning's worth of work (although it did require a late lunch). To get the lightest possible package, a race team will want to use the lightweight aluminum crimp fittings, but that requires a special hydraulic crimping tool which runs for approximately three grand. If you check around, however, lots of race shops have the tool.
CV Products, which does a lot of lightweight hose packages for race teams all over the country, says the most common method is for racers to send their old hoses off their car and CV's technicians can duplicate them-including hose size, length, and end styles-in lightweight hoses and send them back.
Or if you don't want to, or can't, ship your old hoses, you have other options. Obviously, you can send in a written list of the hoses you want. Just be sure to be very specific about the AN size of each hose, the length, and what type of ends you want (specifically the angle of the bend, if any). Another option, especially with a brand-new chassis that has never been plumbed before, is to use pieces of string, welding wire, or anything else you have handy to lay out the route of your hoses. Many people find this is a lot simpler than trying to figure out total length, including bends, with a tape measure. Then take those pieces and use a piece of tape to label each end with exactly what type of hose end you want. Also, don't forget to label each piece whether it is a pressure hose or vacuum because the vacuum hoses will require an inner support coil to prevent their collapsing.
Once you've got that done, box it all up and ship it to CV for it to create your plumbing package. All that will be left for you to do is hook everything up.
CV's Jason Hulin handles most...
CV's Jason Hulin handles most of the hose fabrication. He uses a length of rod with a notch cut in one end. Slip the coil over the rod and insert the bent end into the notch and spin the rod (either by hand or with a drill as you can see here) to compress the liner.
Hold the end of the coil (next...
Hold the end of the coil (next to the drill) so that it remains compressed and slide it into the hose. Once it is in place, you can release the coil and pull the rod out.
We're using Aeroquip's aluminum...
We're using Aeroquip's aluminum crimped hose ends that swivel. You can use non-swiveling hose ends, but they don't save much weight and you have to be much more careful to crimp the ends at just the right angle.
Crimping the hose ends requires...
Crimping the hose ends requires a special press using chucks sized specifically for each size end. Unfortunately, there is no cheap hand crimper.
The finished piece is permanent...
The finished piece is permanent and greatly exceeds the maximum burst pressure of the size of hose.
The seal for the hose ends...
The seal for the hose ends isn't the threads. Instead, it is the seat on the female side (which you can see here) and the cone on the male side. The most common sources for leaks between these surfaces are over tightening the hose ends or debris scarring the seat or cone. One of the best ways to avoid leaks s to cap the ends of the hoses whenever they are off the car.
Aluminum AN wrenches, like...
Aluminum AN wrenches, like the set from CV shown here, don't scar the hose ends and help keep crew members from over tightening the fittings because the handles are shorter than standard wrenches.
A look at some of the completed...
A look at some of the completed hoses going into place. When routing your hoses, try to keep them on top of chassis bars to shield them from rocks and debris getting thrown up off the track's surface.
The same thing happens with...
The same thing happens with the fuel line from the fuel cell to the filter. By intelligently routing your hoses, they are both out of the way when you are working on the car and protected from the elements.
Instead of the StarLite hose,...
Instead of the StarLite hose, the power steering system feed line requires Aeroquip's High Pressure hose. This hose has a burst pressure of 2,250 lbs on the -6 and 1,750 on the -10. We're also using reusable hose ends here.
A look at the completed engine...
A look at the completed engine setup.
Durham even went so far as...
Durham even went so far as to use the StarLite hose on the oil lines that feed the valvespring oilers in the valve covers.