Now, before we got any delusions that we could go out and spank the socks off of Richards, Francis, Lanigan, and the rest of that crowd, it was time to buckle down and get the motor into the car. Step one was to test-fit everything, motor, bellhousing, headers, and so on. We checked for clearances all around the engine and, other than the occasional wiggle here and there to get it in place, the only real issue was the gas pedal. That turned out to be Step 2. The bottom of the throttle linkage hit the top of the dry sump pump. We were able to raise the throttle mount up about 3/4-inch to give plenty of clearance and the problem was solved.
Jeremy Anderson made the trip from Mooresville, NC, down to Tampa to help swap in our new powerplant. He spent two days in our shop, really showing Roush Yates' dedication to our market. We had the engine and bellhousing installed in the car before Jeremy arrived, so it became a matter of dealing with the plumbing and wiring of the car, then we'd be ready to go.
We had to do a little work...
We had to do a little work on the oil tank from Roush Yates, namely weld in a pair of breathers. Normally, you could buy a tank with the breathers already installed but we were in a time crunch and couldn't wait for a new one to ship. Rob Fisher
"Twenty feet of -16 AN hose? What are you plumbing, the space shuttle?" joked Edelbrock's Jason Snider when I discussed the project with him. We would need that size hose to run between dry sump pump and oil tank. Joking aside, we settled on Russell's Pro Classic Hose for most of the plumbing. Pro Classic is a reasonably priced performance hose that features a super lightweight nylon braid that can handle almost every plumbing situation. Note we said almost. It's critical when plumbing a dry sump system that you use steel-braided hose between pump and tank, especially on the suction or feed side. This is the line that sucks the oil from the tank into the pump. You should never, ever use a nylon-braided hose in this situation for two potentially dangerous reasons.
"When the oil is hot, the hose will be softer thanks to that heat," explains Anderson. "Although it takes less suction to get the hot oil from tank to pump, the softer hose is more susceptible to collapsing. On the flip side, if the oil is cool it is also thicker and the hose is at its most rigid state, all of which means it takes more suction to get the oil from the tank to the pump. The added suction can cause the hose to collapse."
In either situation if the nylon hose collapses, oil pressure stops and the motor is starved of lubrication. Think of it like drinking a really thick milkshake through a thin straw.
"The real bad news is it's darn near instantaneous," says Anderson. "If that happens on the track you're done."
Since none of us wanted to have to be the one to call Doug Yates and tell him that a bunch of hack magazine guys just sent a rod through the oil pan in one of his motors, we opted for Russell's ProRace hose which features a specially formulated CPE synthetic inner liner that is embedded with a partial-coverage stainless steel inner braid, then bonded together by a full-coverage stainless outer braid.
The finished oil tank holds...
The finished oil tank holds 25 quarts of oil. Granted that's a lot of lube and our motor would be fine with a 16-quart tank, which we may switch to later on to save some money on oil changes. As you might guess, this motor doesn't use Auto Zone 10W-30, Roush Yates has its own racing oil that's available directly from Roush Yates Performance Parts. Rob Fisher
While building the hoses for this motor, we learned that you can use a reciprocating saw to cut hose if your bench cutter breaks. It's not the best (or safest) option but it will definitely give your buddies helping you a good laugh.
Late-night antics with power tools aside, it's important to thoroughly clean each and every hose when plumbing an engine. Jeremy gave the insides of each hose a good dous-ing with brake cleaner and then blew them out with the air compressor. Russell's exclusive line lube made attaching the full-flow hose ends on every connection a much easier task.
It's the little things Everything was hunky dory until we went to attach the fan. The diameter of our old spacer was too big to fit into the pulley. Fortunately, my friend Gus works at Pro Tools down the street and was able to throw the pulley on a lathe and turn it down to the proper size. It was a piece of cake and gave me an opportunity to get out for a drive. But it turns out that wouldn't be the only trip to Gus' place that we'd be making.
The Dry Sump is Where? Ford dry sump engines, like those you'd find in an asphalt car, often have the pump mounted low on the passenger side, toward the front of the motor. But because of the way the motor is mounted in most Dirt Late Models (ours included) that location won't work. The pump will hit the motor mount. So, our pump is mounted on the top driver side of the bellhousing and is driven off of the back of the crank.
Bobby found a unique use for...
Bobby found a unique use for a 1/2-inch upper control arm shim. To clear an unused mount on the bottom, right-side framerail that normally locates the liftarm, the oil tank had to be moved out 1/2-inch. Thankfully we had some spare shims from Longacre that slid right into place. Rob Fisher
When we ran the Pro Classic...
When we ran the Pro Classic lines through the mid-plate, we were concerned the rubbing of hose against aluminum could cause damage. That problem was easily solved by some rubber highjacked from an old tire. Rob Fisher
Here you can see the twin...
Here you can see the twin fittings (in blue) that carry water to both heads. Rob Fisher