5. Remove the injector-intake manifold. Note that on Geving's motor the cylinder head has been machined to use an O-ring around the intake-runner ports, which eliminates the intake gasket that can slip out of place during assembly. If the intake gasket moves, it can partially block the intake ports disrupting flow and robbing horsepower.

6. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods, closely inspect each one for wear to evaluate if any may need to be replaced. A good way to do this is to roll the tips with your finger to discover any tightness or scuffing of the roller tip. Also inspect the rocker arm bodies for any signs of contact where clearance problems may have existed. This is especially critical if you purchased the motor used and are tearing it down for the first time. There should never be clearance issues in a correctly built valvetrain.

7. Depending on the cylinder heads being used, you may have to remove several valvesprings in order to gain access to the head bolts. This is typical with many of the spread port heads and offset lifter configurations being used on today's racing engines. If this is the case, we recommend that you remove all of the valvesprings before removing the heads. Be sure to use a leak down tester to hold up the valves in the cylinder to ensure that you do not damage them when removing the keepers, retainers, and lash caps.

8. Lightly tap on the valve stems to free up the valve locks before you begin to remove the springs. We recommend that you use a high-quality valvespring compressor like the one Geving uses from LSM Racing Products. It makes the valvespring removal process easy and also prevents possible damage to the valve locks, retainers, and valve stems. Discard the springs after removing them from the engine.

9. To prevent damage to valves after removing the springs, place a zip tie around each valve stem to keep them from falling into the cylinders after each spring is removed. Inspect and clean the valve locks then put them into a Ziplock bag.

10. Remove any water hoses, fittings and temperature senders from the cylinder heads. Loosen and remove the cylinder-head bolts. Carefully remove the cylinder heads and place on a workbench. Thoroughly clean and inspect the cylinder head studs, nuts, and washers, then clean thoroughly and store them in your trusty Ziplock bag.

11. Find a suitable-sized box and place the cylinder head on top of bubble wrap, packing peanuts, terry towels, or other material in the bottom of the box to protect its surface from damage on the way to the machine shop.

12. Remove the lifters and inspect them carefully for wear. Take special notice of the roller tips and be sure they roll freely. In a 360 Sprint Car motor, a typical life cycle for lifters is about 30 races. It's not recommended to extend service life of even the highest quality lifter, as the valvetrain is constantly under tremendous stress with today's extreme cam profiles and high rpm demands.

13. Rotate the engine upside down, and remove the oil pan bolts. Clean and place in a Ziplock bag. Remove the oil pan, taking care not to damage the mounting surface when prying it free. Disassemble the pan (if applicable), placing the small parts in a Ziplock bag, box up the pan for the trip to the machine shop.

14. One by one, loosen the connecting-rod bolts and remove the rod cap. To loosen, gently tap on the rod cap with a plastic or rubber mallet. Push the rod down and away from the crankshaft journal, being careful not to scratch the crankshaft surface or cylinder walls with the end of the rod. Remove and inspect the rod bearings as they provide valuable clues to any internal problems in the engine that may need to be addressed.

15. Remove the spiral locks and wristpins disconnecting the rod from the piston. Measure the pin and rod end bushing diameter for proper clearance to determine if you will need new wristpin bushings and pins for the rebuild.