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Limited Late Model Motor - Build Your Own Race Engine, Part FourButtoning Up--Final Assembly Steps Before Heading Off To The Dyno From the March, 2009 issue of Circle Track By Jeff Huneycutt Photography by Jeff Huneycutt
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At last, we're finally ready... At last, we're finally ready for the dyno. Finally, there's light at the end of the tunnel. In this, the fourth installment of Circle Track's Limited Late Model engine build, we're finishing up the assembly before heading back to KT Engine Development to dyno test our results. This is the fun part of the build, all the pre-fitting and measuring has already been done, and many of the steps on the following pages make the engine look complete. But just because we're doing "simple" things like bolting up the oil pan and valve covers, this is still not the time to get careless. Attention to detail is paramount if you want all your hard work to result in a race engine that not only makes good power but also will be dependable race after race. Remember, our goal when we started this series, was not just to impress you with a cool engine when everything is finished, but to show you how you can do much of this work yourself. The money you save can go toward purchasing better-quality parts or the tire bill. It doesn't matter as long as it's assisting your racing program. Along the way, we've tried to provide plenty of tips that will help you should you try to build-or rebuild-your own race engine. We chose a Chevrolet because it is by far the most popular make of engine to be found on tracks across the country, but no matter what brand you race or what class, much of what is found in this series can benefit you. After all, it doesn't matter if you are racing a pure stock or a Super Late Model, good engine-building practices don't vary. Let's get to it.  In the last installment we...  In the last installment we put the valvetrain together, and if you remember, we had issues with the pushrods rubbing the heads. We fixed this with Isky's adjustable guide plates. But we ran out of space and didn't show you that while we got the pushrods where we thought we wanted them, we totally screwed up the rocker locations. As you can see here, the rockers' roller tips aren't centered on the top of the valve stems. This is an engine failure just waiting to happen.  This can be fixed by grinding...  This can be fixed by grinding the interlocking tabs on the Isky pushrod guideplates to build in even more adjustability. With the rockers studs loose so that the guideplates can be moved and the rockers sitting on top, everything was adjusted until the pushrods weren't rubbing and the rockers were centered over the valve stems.  Before installing the front...  Before installing the front seal, apply a thin layer of silicone around the edge of the opening in the timing cover to keep oil from leaking around the outside edge of the seal.  Gasket prep not only helps...  Gasket prep not only helps prevent leaks, but it also makes the gasket tacky enough that you can stick the gasket wherever you want and it won't move while you get the other component fitted up. But it's a good idea to only apply gasket prep to one side. If you apply it to both sides, it can sometimes make the gasket "squirm" or move slightly when you are tightening down the bolts.  Before bolting up the timing...  Before bolting up the timing cover, liberally apply assembly lube to the chain while you spin it over at the crank. The chain only gets splash oiling, so no matter how much you prime the oiling system before initial startup, it won't get anything.  One product that can make...  One product that can make your life a lot easier is an engine-specific bolt kit from ARP. It has all the correct bolts you will need for bolting up all the accessories-everything from the timing cover, to the oil pan, to the distributor bracket-all in one package with everything marked. It eliminates a lot of time wasted rooting around in your bolt bucket or making trips to the hardware store when you realize you don't have the fastener you need.  For this install we're using...  For this install we're using a Moroso standard-volume oil pump, which comes with an excellent oil pump driveshaft. Don't make the mistake of using a stock-style pump driveshaft. It uses a plastic locking collar, which can break and leave you without any oil pressure. A good aftermarket pump driveshaft like this one uses a steel collar which won't break. Make sure the pump driveshaft stays engaged with the oil pump while you are sliding both into place.  The oil pump is held in place...  The oil pump is held in place with a single bolt; there is no gasket.  You need to make sure the...  You need to make sure the oil pump is clean inside and out, so go ahead and remove the four bolts holding the cover in place.  Pull and clean the gears and,...  Pull and clean the gears and, before reinstalling, fill them with assembly grease. This will help the pump prime faster and start sending oil throughout the engine.  Once the gears are in place,...  Once the gears are in place, squirt a little more grease down the sides to fill the cavities.  The cover has to maintain...  The cover has to maintain a good seal for the pump to work correctly, so apply a little blue Loctite when reinstalling the four bolts.  You should use an oil-pump...  You should use an oil-pump pickup designed to work with the oil pan you are using. A stock pickup, for example, will rarely work with a racing oil pan. The fit to get the pickup to slide into the pump housing will probably be tight. Most pickups have a ridge near the end that you can put a wrench on. Now you can tap the side of the wrench with a hammer to help encourage the pickup into position.  To make sure the oil pump...  To make sure the oil pump isn't left sucking air in the turns, the pickup must be between 3/8 and 1/4 inch off of the bottom of the oil pan. And the only way to know this is to measure. Begin by using a straightedge and a ruler to measure the distance from the oil-pan rail to the bottom of the pan in the area where the pickup will sit.  Now measure from the pickup...  Now measure from the pickup to the bottom of the block. Make sure to keep your straightedge level. Allow 1/16 inch for the compressed oil pan gasket. The distance from the block to the pickup should be 3/8 to 1/4 less than the distance from the pan rail to the bottom of the pan plus 1/16 inch for the gasket.  In our case, there was too...  In our case, there was too much room between the pickup and the bottom of the pan. Three washers underneath the tab on the pickup fixed this. Of course, if you do this, make sure to use a longer bolt on the oil pump cap to make sure you have enough threads engaged into the housing.  Here's a quick shot of the...  Here's a quick shot of the Champ Pans oil pan we are using with the windage tray removed. Champ also provided the pickup. This is an eight-quart pan, which will provide enough volume of oil to help keep things cool. Notice the dividers. Each is equipped with a trap door that only allows oil to flow one direction. This helps keep oil trapped in the area around the oil-pump pickup so that oil can't move out from underneath the pickup thanks to g-forces in the turns. If that ever happens, your oil pump is left sucking air and your bearings are as good as dead.  Race engines don't generally...  Race engines don't generally use dipsticks, so go ahead and fill the hole for the dipstick tube with silicone while the oil pan is off.  While the engine is upside...  While the engine is upside down for the installation of the oil pump and oil pan, now is also a good time to install the oil filter mount. This is a mount I picked up from Bradley Auto Parts, which has no bypass. Stock engines use an oil filter bypass to allow the oil to keep flowing even if the filter gets clogged or the oil pressure gets too high. This isn't the best option in racing. A mount without a bypass makes sure all the oil goes through the filter. Just make sure to use the largest oil filter you can get so that it will have plenty of capacity and keep it changed regularly.  The oil-pan gasket is a four-piece...  The oil-pan gasket is a four-piece set from Cometic. Begin by laying down the sides for the oil-pan rails. To help completely seal the pan, apply a small dab of silicone in the corners.  Drop the end pieces in place,...  Drop the end pieces in place, and then apply another small dab of silicone on top of the ends of the rubber pieces.  Now the oil pan from Champ...  Now the oil pan from Champ Pans is ready for installation. Be careful not to over-torque the oil-pan bolts (9 ft-lb is the recommendation), which can tear the gasket.  Once the oil pan is secure,...  Once the oil pan is secure, you can flip the engine back over and prepare it for the intake manifold. Many gasket kits include a rubber strip for the china wall, but these can slip out of place and allow a leak. Instead, apply a thick bead of silicone here.  We're also using Cometic for...  We're also using Cometic for the intake gaskets. One trick here is to apply gasket prep to the side of the gasket facing the cylinder heads. This will keep them from slipping out of position when dropping the intake manifold into place. Make sure none of the gasket interferes with the intake port. If it does, cut that portion away with a razor blade.  Most Late Model classes require...  Most Late Model classes require a dual-plane intake manifold, and Edelbrock's Performer intake (PN 2101), which we are using here, is the almost universal choice. Drop the intake in place and gently snug all the bolts. You should not have any gaps in the silicone between the china wall on the block and the bottom of the intake.  Torque the intake manifold...  Torque the intake manifold bolts to 30 pounds in two steps. The thick intake gaskets have a tendency to compress, so it's always a good idea to torque the bolts a second (or sometimes, even third) time until the gasket stops compressing.  This is a water neck divider...  This is a water neck divider Champ Pans sent along with the oil pan. In circle-track racing, one side of the engine usually tends to run hotter, and the idea of the divider is to force water to flow evenly through the block.  The divider drops right in...  The divider drops right in place and the water neck bolts right on top. Don't forget gaskets or at least some silicone on both sides of the divider so you won't wind up with an annoying water leak.  Most intakes will require...  Most intakes will require a few plugs where sensors would normally go on over-the-road engines.  High-end rockers will require...  High-end rockers will require a tall set of valve covers like this cast aluminum unit from Edelbrock. It arrives with breather holes already cut in, so you can use a drop-in breather like the one pictured from Moroso. The breather kit comes with rubber grommets to hold the breather in place. Put a breather in the valve cover that will go on the left side of the engine and a grommet plug on the right to keep oil from splashing out in the turns.  Now you can install the water...  Now you can install the water pump. This is a lightweight aluminum unit from Richard Childress Racing, which is available through most Chevrolet dealerships. Make sure to put thread sealer on the bolt that goes on the lower left-hand side (right in this photo) because it extends into the water jacket.  Apply a thin film of grease...  Apply a thin film of grease inside the bore of the damper and install it. Do not make the mistake of trying to use the crank bolt to force the damper over the snout of the crankshaft. A damper installer like the one you see here is the only reliable way to install a damper on a crankshaft without damaging anything. This, by the way, is a small race-only damper from Professional Products. Its lighter weight, compared to a stock unit, should help this engine spin up faster.  We are also using a fuel pump...  We are also using a fuel pump from Professional Products. This is a high-volume pump that works more efficiently than an old-style lever action pump. Also included in the kit is a fuel pressure regulator and several different fittings.  Before installing the fuel...  Before installing the fuel pump, you must first slide the fuel pump pushrod in place. We got ours from Bradley Auto Parts. One trick is to put high-pressure lube on the ends of the pushrod. This not only protects it during initial startup, but the lube helps the pushrod stick to the end of the fuel pump lobe on the camshaft so that the pushrod won't slide out while you are trying to install the fuel pump.  Unlike a standard fuel pump,...  Unlike a standard fuel pump, this Professional Products unit has a piston that works on a parallel line with the fuel pump pushrod. This is one of the ways this pump can move more fuel with less parasitic drag on the engine.  Here it is installed on the...  Here it is installed on the engine. Professional Products even includes the bolts.  Before dropping in the distributor,...  Before dropping in the distributor, make sure to liberally apply some sort of thick lubricant to the distributor gear.  These E3 plugs use a special...  These E3 plugs use a special tip that's supposed to help improve combustion efficiency. Most rulebooks make no mention of what type of spark plugs you can or can't use, so we're trying these out to see if they help make power.  Before installing your plugs,...  Before installing your plugs, you should always apply a thin coat of anti-seize to keep them from galling inside the cylinder heads.  Most Limited Late Model-level...  Most Limited Late Model-level classes require a stock-style distributor. For Chevrolets, this means an HEI that includes the coil inside the distributor cap. We're using a high-power race HEI from Moroso that should provide plenty of spark well in excess of 8,000 rpm-where stock HEI distributors just can't keep up. We're also using Moroso's plug wires, which are already cut to the correct length and marked one through eight to make everything just a bit easier. By the way, the standard firing order for a Chevy small-block is 1, 8, 4, 3, 6, 5, 7, and 2.  To avoid crossover, make sure...  To avoid crossover, make sure no two wires are touching. One cheap way to do this is to create a loom with zip ties, as you see here.  Edelbrock's 2101 intake is...  Edelbrock's 2101 intake is designed for a four-barrel carburetor, and most classes at this level require a two-barrel Holley. To get it to fit, you will need an adaptor plate like this one from Bradley Auto Parts.  This is Holley's 500 cfm two-barrel....  This is Holley's 500 cfm two-barrel. Holley has advanced the design so much that it should make good power right out of the box.
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