Limited Late Model Motor - Build Your Own Race Engine, Part Four

Now the oil pan from Champ Pans is ready for installation. Be careful not to over-torque the oil-pan bolts (9 ft-lb is the recommendation), which can tear the gasket.

Once the oil pan is secure, you can flip the engine back over and prepare it for the intake manifold. Many gasket kits include a rubber strip for the china wall, but these can slip out of place and allow a leak. Instead, apply a thick bead of silicone here.

We're also using Cometic for the intake gaskets. One trick here is to apply gasket prep to the side of the gasket facing the cylinder heads. This will keep them from slipping out of position when dropping the intake manifold into place. Make sure none of the gasket interferes with the intake port. If it does, cut that portion away with a razor blade.

Most Late Model classes require a dual-plane intake manifold, and Edelbrock's Performer intake (PN 2101), which we are using here, is the almost universal choice. Drop the intake in place and gently snug all the bolts. You should not have any gaps in the silicone between the china wall on the block and the bottom of the intake.

Torque the intake manifold bolts to 30 pounds in two steps. The thick intake gaskets have a tendency to compress, so it's always a good idea to torque the bolts a second (or sometimes, even third) time until the gasket stops compressing.

This is a water neck divider Champ Pans sent along with the oil pan. In circle-track racing, one side of the engine usually tends to run hotter, and the idea of the divider is to force water to flow evenly through the block.

The divider drops right in place and the water neck bolts right on top. Don't forget gaskets or at least some silicone on both sides of the divider so you won't wind up with an annoying water leak.

Most intakes will require a few plugs where sensors would normally go on over-the-road engines.

High-end rockers will require a tall set of valve covers like this cast aluminum unit from Edelbrock. It arrives with breather holes already cut in, so you can use a drop-in breather like the one pictured from Moroso. The breather kit comes with rubber grommets to hold the breather in place. Put a breather in the valve cover that will go on the left side of the engine and a grommet plug on the right to keep oil from splashing out in the turns.

Now you can install the water pump. This is a lightweight aluminum unit from Richard Childress Racing, which is available through most Chevrolet dealerships. Make sure to put thread sealer on the bolt that goes on the lower left-hand side (right in this photo) because it extends into the water jacket.

Apply a thin film of grease inside the bore of the damper and install it. Do not make the mistake of trying to use the crank bolt to force the damper over the snout of the crankshaft. A damper installer like the one you see here is the only reliable way to install a damper on a crankshaft without damaging anything. This, by the way, is a small race-only damper from Professional Products. Its lighter weight, compared to a stock unit, should help this engine spin up faster.

We are also using a fuel pump from Professional Products. This is a high-volume pump that works more efficiently than an old-style lever action pump. Also included in the kit is a fuel pressure regulator and several different fittings.