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Budget Race Engines - Build Your Own Race Engine, Part 2
Completing The Foundation
By Jeff Huneycutt, Photography by Jeff Huneycutt
January 01, 2009
Now, slide the rod cap into place. Again, make sure the chamfered side points to the outside of the rod journal. Remember, the caps always orient on the rods one way. Lubricate the threads of the rod bolts with moly lube, or extreme pressure lube, and install the nuts just tight enough so that the crank can be turned over without splitting the cap from the rod.
Now, slide the rod cap into place. Again, make sure the chamfered side points to the outsi
Your bolt manufacturer will probably provide torque specs for the rod bolts, but the most dependable method for avoiding a connecting rod failure is to check rod bolt stretch. I'm using a gauge from ARP. Begin by zeroing out your gauge on the bolt when it's in a relaxed state.
Your bolt manufacturer will probably provide torque specs for the rod bolts, but the most
Now torque both bolts on that rod to 10 ft/lbs less than the suggested spec and measure the same bolt again that you zeroed the gauge against the first time. Rod bolts should stretch between 0.005 and 0.007 inch. The stretch should be too low. If it is, release the tension on the bolt, increase the setting on the torque wrench and repeat the process. Aim for 0.0055 to 0.006 of stretch. If you stretch past 0.007 inch, the bolt should be considered trash.
Now torque both bolts on that rod to 10 ft/lbs less than the suggested spec and measure th
Next, you will need to make sure each pair of rods on each crank journal have enough side clearance. You can do this with a dial indicator set up on a magnetic base like you see here. Hold one rod against the crank fillet and move the other back and forth. You should have at least 0.008 inch of clearance. If you don't have a dial indicator, you can also check side clearance by placing a feeler gauge between the rods.
Next, you will need to make sure each pair of rods on each crank journal have enough side
Once all the pistons are in place, you can slip the timing set on. The easiest method is to align the dowel on the camshaft so that it's in the 3 o'clock position. This will help you line up the timing marks.
Once all the pistons are in place, you can slip the timing set on. The easiest method is t
Almost all timing chain sets have dots on both the crank and cam gears. When these are aligned directly across from each other, you know the cam is installed "straight up," or with zero advance or retard. Notice how this crank gear has multiple keyways to allow you to advance or retard the cam four degrees. When installing a timing set like this, it can be easy to get confused with crankshaft location. Just remember that when the number-one cylinder is at top dead center, the key on the crank will be pointing toward the number-one cylinder (as you can see here).
Almost all timing chain sets have dots on both the crank and cam gears. When these are ali
Once the timing set is in place, we can spin the rotating assembly over to make sure the rods do not contact the camshaft we installed last month. If the engine isn't a stroker, interference between the spinning rods and the camshaft is unlikely, but it's always a good idea to check anyway. During the process of installing the pistons and rods-and throughout the rest of the build-you will be spinning the crank many times. The easiest way to do this is with a crank socket like this one from Powerhouse Products.
Once the timing set is in place, we can spin the rotating assembly over to make sure the r
If you don't have a crank socket, you can also use a large crescent wrench, which will grab onto the crank key to allow you to spin the crank. Just be careful not to damage either the snout of the crank or the key
If you don't have a crank socket, you can also use a large crescent wrench, which will gra
Finally, you can install the rear main seal. This block was originally a one-piece rear main seal design, but it has been fitted with a two-piece seal adaptor. The two-piece design works with more performance cranks and oil pans than the one-piece blocks. In this build, we're using all Cometic gaskets. Use a thin bead of gasket sealer or silicone on the back of the seal (where it mates to the adaptor) and oil or extreme pressure lube on the lip of the seal before installing. Also, always make sure the lip of the seal points toward the interior of the engine. Finally, it's a good idea to "clock" the seal, or slide it so that the parting line of the seal does not match up with the parting line of the cap, as you can see here. This helps eliminate annoying oil leaks.
Finally, you can install the rear main seal. This block was originally a one-piece rear ma
The two-piece adaptor uses two socket-head hex bolts to fasten the cap in place. The studs you see sticking up are for the oil pan.
The two-piece adaptor uses two socket-head hex bolts to fasten the cap in place. The studs
531 Spectrum Circle
KT Engine Development
3402 Democrat Rd.
801 SW Ordanance Rd.
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By Jeff Huneycutt
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