Two Speed Transmission - Rebuild Your Own Bert

10. Soak the clutch plates in ATF fluid for 30 minutes before stacking them. Begin by sliding a clutch plate on the cluster gear and then alternate steel and clutch until they are all in place. If you're reusing clutch plates, check to see how much clearance you have at the top. If there is 3/16 inch or more from the top of the last clutch plate to the end of the cluster gear, the plates are too worn and should be replaced.

11. Next, slide the assembly over the bearings and into the clutch drum. The spring will try to push everything apart, so Cook uses a piece of bent steel like you see here to hold everything together.

12. Before assembling the gears in the case, install the two shifter seals.

13. Also, make sure you check that the clutch piston moves freely in its bore in the case, or else it will wear your newly assembled clutch pack prematurely.

14. Now, slide the cluster gear into the case. This can be tricky because it probably won't fit through the opening in the side of the case with the piece of steel holding it together. Cook uses a large pair of Vise-Grips like you see here to help get it into position without allowing the spring to blow it to pieces as soon as you loosen your grip.

15. Once the clutch is in position, a C-clamp will help hold it closed until you get it locked in.

16. Check the movement of the clutch drum inside the case. If you can get more than 3/16 inch of movement with a screwdriver, something inside the drum isn't correct.

17. The reverse idler gear goes in next. It spins on a caged bearing held in place with C-clips.

18. Assemble the output shaft into the tailhousing. Cook says a thin bead of silicone is the best way to seal things up here.

19. Slide the input shaft into the case, then position the tailhousing so that the input and output shafts connect. Now you're ready to bolt the tailhousing to the case.

20. The two shifter forks drop into their slots and cut into the gears, then you can install the slider shafts into the case and through the ends of the shifter forks. The forks connect to the slider shafts with the roll pins included in the rebuild kit. It's easy to get the two shafts confused, just remember that the reverse shaft (the lower one) has two notches while the primary shaft only one. Also, use plenty of high-pressure lube to protect the shafts until the ATF has a chance to work its way in there.

21. The ball detents slide into the case in this order and keep the slider shafts from moving and popping the transmission out of gear. These small springs provide the tension.

22. It's tricky to get the ball detents and the slider shafts into position while the springs are trying to shoot the steel balls out of the case and across your work area. Cook uses a small magnetic pin to keep them under control while he drops them into place.

23. Cook uses an air chisel to drive the input shaft bearing in place in the front of the case. He says it's actually much gentler on the bearing than beating on it with a hammer. Lock it into place with a C-clip.

24. Use another thin bead to seal the front cover before bolting it into place.