The basic package from Quick Performance that you see here includes all of the brackets in the correct location for your application, axles, hubs, bearings, studs, rotors, and more. Even the pinion angles are pre-determined by Quick, all for $950 and for an extra $100 Quick Performance will even weld on caliper brackets and provide you with calipers and pads. Overall, it's better for circle track racing. This package allows almost any backyard shade tree mechanic with basic tool skills to put current technology into his or her Street Stock.

Installation
There are some key practices that need to be observed in order to guarantee the performance of your new rearend. When installing, use the factory mounting bolts so long as they're in good condition. If not, and any bolts need to be replaced, grade-8 should always be used. Always use nylock nuts and don't overtighten anything. DeMoss says you should take all of the slack out and then go one more quarter turn. "You'd be surprised how many failures we see because of over-tightening." For example, your U-joint can go out 10 laps into a race because you crushed its cap by over-tightening it. The same thing can happen with the bushings if you crank down the nuts on the brackets too much. Bottom line is to use DeMoss' "no slack plus quarter turn" rule and you'll be fine.

Another important step in the installation of your new rearend is attaching equal length chains from the rearend housing to the framerails. The chains should be equidistant apart on either side of the rear and bolted in place using, what else, but grade-8 bolts. When you jack the car up, the chains will prevent your springs from falling out of the spring buckets, as well as keeping your brake lines from snapping. It's critical, however, to measure the length of the chains, ensuring that they're short enough to prevent the driveshaft from contacting the driveshaft loop. If that happens, all of the weight of your rearend will be supported by only your driveshaft and it will bend.

You also have to be diligent about making sure the length is adjusted correctly. "I've seen guys at the ARCA level bend driveshafts because their chain lengths weren't properly adjusted, that can be an expensive mistake for anyone because your driveshaft is now junk," says Frank Kimmel.

Once the rearend is in place, you should thoroughly check all the mounting points and anywhere you tightened a nut or bolt ensuring that there's no suspension binding.

Wrapping It Up
Now that the hard part is done, there are a couple of items we'll pay particular attention to once the car is on the track and racing on a weekly basis. These simple maintenance tips should be followed by anybody racing a Street Stock-level class where the horsepower isn't outrageous. Inspect your rearend once a month, or after every four races, if you don't hit the track weekly. While you're inspecting the rear, go ahead and change the rearend oil at the same time. Again, Quick Performance always recommends a mineral-based oil over synthetic, largely because of the cost-benefit ratio. The additional money spent on synthetics can be put to better use elsewhere in a Street Stock-level car. Finally, make sure you have all of your shocks dyno'd before you install them, but only if you're interested in going after that big trophy at the end of the season.

Follow those three tips and your new floater will give you years of trouble-free racing.

SOURCE
Quick Performance
www.quickperformance.com