We know that most race shops don’t have the time or the hardware to make serious chassis repairs, but every race team should be able to identify when a chassis builder is capable of performing quality repair work.
15. One end of the square tubing connects to the round spring buckets on an angle. The cuts need to be as precise as possible, and the compound angles created by meeting the spring bucket off center can be tough to get right, so Hess Race Cars uses patterns like this made from aluminum sheetmetal to help simplify the process.
Hess Race Cars in Mooresville, North Carolina, is a shop exactly like that when it comes to asphalt racing chassis. They regularly build everything from Late Model Stocks to NASCAR touring cars. To show you how it’s done right, we documented one of the toughest repair tests any chassis builder faces. This is an asphalt touring car that took a pretty hard lick to the right front corner and requires a new front clip. Making matters more difficult is the fact that the car was originally fabricated by a different builder. The owner had already noticed the success that the Hess-built cars were having in the series and after the wreck, brought the car to the Hess shops for one of their front clips. Putting a new clip on one of your own cars is one thing, but the task gets much more difficult when trying to fabricate a new clip to a car with different attachment points between the clip and the framerails.
The task gets much more difficult when trying to fabricate a new clip to a car with different attachment points between the clip and the framerails.
Other top-quality chassis builders may vary their methods slightly, but for the most part it all works the same. And we know this works because we’ve seen cars both built and repaired by the craftsmen at Hess Race Cars many times at many different racetracks.

16. Cornet is still slowing...

16. Cornet is still slowing cutting down the tubing to get the best fit, but you can still see how it is routed to connect the clip to the framerails.

17. To help straighten the...

17. To help straighten the bent down tube, Cornet heats the area with a rosebud tip on the blow torch at the opposite side of the bend then allows it to cool slowly. The heating and cooling process helps pull the tube back into shape.

18. Byrd handled the most...

18.Byrd handled the most finicky job of the day. The rear pivot for the lower control arm attached to the tubing that had to be fabricated to attach the clip to the framerails. Here, Byrd is making templates for the lower control arm brackets. The fixture bolted to the fabrication table located the center point of the pivot, so the brackets only need to connect those points to the clip rigidly.

19. After getting the template...

19. After getting the template to fit like he wants it, Byrd traces the pattern onto 3/16-inch steel plate and cuts it out.

20. You can’t simply butt-weld...

20. You can’t simply butt-weld two pieces of tubing together—it won’t be strong enough for racing. Instead, insert a sleeve—a piece of tubing that will just barely fit inside the original—and tack that in place.

21. Then Cornet slides the...

21. Then Cornet slides the new tubing over the sleeve and tacks that into place, leaving a gap wide enough to hold a good weld bead.

22. When welding tubing,...

22. When welding tubing, Cornet recommends always welding from the bottom up. This keeps the melted steel from the bead from dripping into the area you are welding.

23. Here’s a completed weld....

23. Here’s a completed weld. Cornet also drilled holes into the outer tubes to allow extra surface area to weld the tubes to the sleeve for additional strength. He also says it’s important to set your welder with enough wire speed so that the weld is convex, to extend beyond the surface of the tube. Not only does this help guarantee a strong weld, but it also allows you to grind off the excess for a nice, smooth surface. After the chassis is repainted you won’t be able to tell where the repair was made.

24. This vertical brace stitches...

24. This vertical brace stitches all the separate tubes together to the clip. Whenever you can, always place braces so that they join in one spot and support each other. In other words, create on “X” instead of two “T”’s in separate places. It can make for a tougher job, but your race car will be stronger.

25. Here, you can see how...

25. Here, you can see how the brackets for the lower control arm’s rear pickup is welded to the clip and braced with narrow steel tubing from below. Once it cools, the fixture can be unbolted.

26. Cornet only uses tack...

26. Cornet only uses tack welds until he is confident that everything is positioned perfectly, then he begins the laborious process of welding all the joints together solidly. During this process, he constantly moves from one area of the chassis to another to keep heat buildup from warping the clip he’s worked so hard to position exactly.

27. Here’s a shot of the...

27. Here’s a shot of the repaired car with the new front clip. There’s still plenty of work to be done fabricating fender, hood, bumper and other mounts and brackets, but Cornet is confident that this car is well on its way to competitive status once again.