For those of you that have followed Project Dirt Late Model over the years know that we have often used the car to test different ideas, setups, and new products our advertisers bring to market. When we test these new products, we like to inform you of how well they perform and if they do what they claim. These tests are being conducted in the real world, on the track and often time during actual races. However, during these events we purposely try not to test the, uh, shall we say durability of these products.
With all of this being said, we recently tested the claims and strength of a quality product. Back in the March '12 issue we told you about a great new design that Howe Racing Products has, the Precision Max A-Frame. In that story, we mentioned that Howe claims bind-free movement under severe braking conditions, and bind-free even if it becomes damaged. We also talked about the fact that they're rebuildable.
Howe’s Precision Max A-Frame...
Howe’s Precision Max A-Frame is rebuildable which is a great feature when you have that little on track incident like Project DLM did recently.
Well, a few weeks ago while racing a series race, at our local track we tested these claims--although not intentionally. It was a racing deal, everyone trying to get in the A-main, a car spun in front of us and, with no place to go, we wrecked bad. Once back at the hauler, we saw that the left upper A-frame cross-shaft was badly bent. We knew that Howe claims bind free operation even if it was damaged, but we had bent it so badly that we knew there was no way it would still move and our night was over--or so we thought. When we removed the upper shock bolt to inspect the damage further we were pleasantly surprised to find that the upper A-frame moved totally bind-free just as Howe said it would. Smiles across our faces we quickly mounted the shock back in place and went out to run the B-main.
After the racing was over for that night, we pulled the A-frame off and straightened the cross-shaft for the next night. Turns out that was a mistake. Howe does not recommend doing this because once the aluminum cross-shaft is bent, and you bend it back, it becomes brittle and weak at the bend point. A couple of races later, we took a minor hit to the left front wheel and sure enough the cross-shaft snapped exactly where it had originally bent and where we straightened it. Lesson learned.
So we contacted the guys at Howe and had them send us a new cross-shaft. In the conversation about the wreck, they asked if we bent any of our ball joints. Not being sure, they told us about a great little tool they have to check ball joints, which they sent along with the parts to rebuild the Precision Max A-Frame. Now, check out how easy this is.
1 Project DLM crew member...
1 Project DLM crew member Terry Watson starts by removing the shock from the left front wheel assembly.
2 Howe makes this great tool,...
2 Howe makes this great tool, a Ball Joint Spreader, that makes removing the ball joint and assembly a piece of cake.
3 We had previously bent...
3 We had previously bent the cross-shaft in an accident while running a series race at East Bay Raceway Park. In an effort to continue racing, we decided to straighten out the bend.
4 Howe recommends against...
4 Howe recommends against doing this because when you straighten the shaft you weaken the aluminum and it becomes subject to breaking, which as you can see here, happened to us—live, learn, and next time we’ll listen to the manufacturer.
5 Terry gets to work using...
5 Terry gets to work using a 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the endcaps.
6 With the endcap removed,...
6 With the endcap removed, he’ll use a pair of snap-ring (or lock) pliers to remove the snap ring.
28 Set the lash on the ball...
28 Set the lash on the ball by loosening the cap 1/8 of a turn.
29 To make this easier on...
29 To make this easier on ourselves we marked a line on the cap with a blue sharpie so we could see where 1/8 of a turn would put us.
30 Finally, before you put...
30 Finally, before you put everything back together, install the setscrews into the housing tightening them evenly. If you have a steel adjuster cap apply blue Loctite to setscrews before installing. Use a grease gun to grease and rotate the ball stud by hand until the grease becomes visible on the bottom of the ball. Now, it can be reassembled as you see here and Project DLM is once again ready to race.
7 He can then pull out one...
7 He can then pull out one of the bearings that will allow him to install the new shaft.
8 Installing the new shaft...
8 Installing the new shaft is as simple as sliding it through the bearing-less end and allowing it to seat against the other end.
9 Here is the shaft in place...
9 Here is the shaft in place without the bearing.
16 And now we can mount the...
16 And now we can mount the Precision Max A-Frame back onto the car.
17 Anytime you take a hit...
17 Anytime you take a hit like we did you will want to inspect every item on the car and Howe makes these Precision Ball Joint Inspection Gauges that make finding damaged ball joints a snap.
18 The sleeves slide right...
18 The sleeves slide right over the shaft of the ball joint. Here’s how it should look.
10 We used a 7/8-inch socket...
10 We used a 7/8-inch socket to help push the bearing into place.
11 Then Terry got his pliers...
11 Then Terry got his pliers out and put the snap ring back where it belongs.
12 Here you can see the snap...
12 Here you can see the snap ring in place.
13 The endcaps screw right...
13 The endcaps screw right in.
14 Terry tightens down the...
14 Terry tightens down the endcaps with his ratchet before switching to a torque wrench and torquing them down to the manufacturer recommended 30 ft-lb for our aluminum ones. If we had steel cross-shafts the torque spec would be 40 ft-lb.
15 The zerk fitting easily...
15 The zerk fitting easily screws into place.
19 If the gauge doesn’t slide...
19 If the gauge doesn’t slide all the way down then you know that the shaft is bent.
20 Clearly we are going to...
20 Clearly we are going to have to repair this ball joint, step one is to take out the zerk fitting. Then we will use a 3/32-inch Allen wrench to remove the set screws from the housing.
21 With a 1/2-inch drive...
21 With a 1/2-inch drive ratchet turn the adjuster cap counter clockwise to remove it.
22 Remove the ball stud....
22 Remove the ball stud.
23 Here you can see the part...
23 Here you can see the part that needs to be replaced.
24 With the ball joint disassembled...
24 With the ball joint disassembled we’re ready to put the new shaft in.
25 Once the shaft is in place,...
25 Once the shaft is in place, grease the threads of the cap.
26 Install the cap and tighten...
26 Install the cap and tighten until it contacts the top of the ball.
27 Tighten it down with the...
27 Tighten it down with the ratchet.