Springs are one of the primary components we use to set up our car. We are fortunate in circle track racing that we need only to turn left. So, we can manipulate the spring rates on the four corners to whatever will suit the setup. When we have chosen the correct combination of spring rates to go along with the other parameters, we get what we want--a balanced and fast race car.
The car is supported by the springs and in modern day racing, the spring that supports the car in the turns might be assisted by a spring rubber, a bump rubber, or the tire in the case of coil-bind where the spring rate goes to infinity.
In every case, it's important to know the spring rate you're running on. It has been one of the frustrations of modern racing that finding the loading on the bump rubbers and spring rubbers is very hard to discover.
And if you moved over to this article from the shock article, you will remember that we told you how the shocks and springs work together to determine the chassis balance. Balance is our primary goal in setup and it has a special meaning that once understood will help you formulate your goals for setup.
The Balanced Setup
The key to chassis performance, whether you are running on dirt or asphalt, is to work toward a more balanced setup. The word balance means that the two suspensions systems, front and rear, are working together and that the four tires are working as hard as they possibly can.
1 Each spring is mounted in the car with a motion ratio to the wheel movement. It is this
This balance can be found by trial and error (by far the most commonly used method) or by giving the car what it wants based on input we get from the car. In the past, T&R took a lot of time and the teams really had no idea when the proper balance was achieved. We now have discovered indicators that we can use to help determine when we have truly achieved a balanced setup. Many odd arrangements of springs have been tried and right now we are seeing some of the racers across the country trying new methods to try to find a balance. For every car there may be dozens of combinations of spring rate, moment center locations front and rear, and weight combinations that will balance the car. Here are some considerations concerning springs when trying to balance your race car.
Knowing the True Spring Rate
The very first thing to consider when talking about what rate springs to use in your race car is knowing exactly what the spring rate is for each of your springs. You must test each spring and do it in the proper way. We need to know the spring rate of our springs within the range that they will be working in conjunction with the corner it will be working with.
The RF spring is mostly in compression, or bump, so we would compress that spring to the installed height and then further compress it 2-3 inches to find the average rate within that specific range. Remember that there is an installed motion ratio and the spring is moving less than the wheel, so we don't necessarily need to compress the spring as much as the wheel moves.
The RR spring is also mostly in compression and would be compressed initially to ride height and then up to 3-4 inches further, depending on the spring rate. For big bar and soft spring setups on asphalt, the right rear spring is usually stiffer and travels less than a conventional softer rate spring.
2 This is the correct way to measure for motion ratio for the lower control arm in a doub
3 The angle of the spring inwards toward the centerline of the car, as well as fore and a
4 A car with a solid axle suspension will “feel” the spring base at the top of the spring
The LR spring reacts similarly to the LF spring in that it moved less compared to the springs on the right side of the car. It's in some rebound on entry and some compression at mid-turn. This spring would be rated by compressing to ride height and then moving it up to 2 inches up and down.
For dirt car applications, the left side springs may rebound quite a bit as the left side jacks up for some slick track setups. In this case, the spring may well be very near or past the free (unloaded) height at mid-turn and compressed down the straightaway.
Front Spring Split
The overall trend in circle track racing, for both dirt and asphalt racing, has been to reduce the rates of the front springs. There is even a move for some situations, to a softer right front spring than the left front spring.
Dirt cars can benefit from a softer RF spring on flatter dry and slick tracks. For asphalt, on the flatter tracks, corner entry is enhanced when running a softer RF spring.
For high-banked tracks, the front spring rate must be increased and it is often necessary to stiffen the RF spring more so than the LF spring rate.
No matter what the stiffness is for our front springs, we still need to compensate at the rear in order to balance the car's suspension dynamics. Dirt Late Model teams are running much stiffer right rear springs than ever before and seeing a lot of success. Asphalt teams who are trying the soft spring setups tend to over do the stiffening of the RR spring.
On flatter tracks, we have seen where, with some rough tracks, the very stiff RR spring just doesn't work and will upset the car due to excess bouncing going over the ripples or bumps. Remember, there is a limit to how stiff a corner can be.
On the higher-banked racetracks, teams that try the soft front springs will quickly change to a higher rate when the car bottoms out. If we use our common sense, we will know that the added mechanical downforce created by the banking will overcome the light spring rate and either the springs will go into coil bind or the chassis, and hopefully not the oil pan, will contact the track surface first.
Rear Spring Rate Split
When racing on flatter tracks, we can often run a softer RR spring rate so we can help increase the amount of bite off the corners on dirt. Some teams running the conventional setups will go to extremes with this spring split and end up with 25-50 pounds of spring rate difference. Most of the time we don't need a high amount of spring split to achieve the desired effect. I have personally set up winning dirt cars in major series on flat tracks while using only 10-15 pounds of rear spring split.
With conventional setups on the higher-banked tracks of more than 12 degrees, we can run a rear spring split with the RR spring rate higher than the LR spring rate on dirt to help balance the front and rear suspensions. This helps to control the rear roll of the car so that we do not need to raise the Panhard bar to excessively high levels.
Improper Switch Between Installation Ratios
It's common for a team to buy a new car from a different manufacturer or move to a new class where the cars are constructed differently than what it was used to. What often changes is the installation ratio at the front of the car and spring base at the rear.
Suppose we have run a class using stock spring rates at the front with stock lower control arms and now decide to run a class that uses a fabricated front clip and coilover shocks and springs that are mounted differently on the lower control arms. If we had the setup figured out on the old car as far as wheel rates were concerned, we then need to duplicate those wheel rates (assuming the overall car weights remain about the same) in order to stay on track with our handling.
To do this we need to know how to calculate the wheel rates in each car. We first calculate the old wheel rates and then try different springs in the calculations until the new car has the same wheel rates. If we're going from a perimeter car (symmetric from left to right sides) to an offset chassis, the problem is compounded because the lower control arms are different lengths and probably have different motion ratios.